The Custom Framebuilding Experience: The Finale

The fit.

Over the last few articles, we have looked at the why’s and what’s of custom frames. We have heard from some of the best in the biz, whether it was in steel, aluminum, titanium or all three. So now the next step is obvious. We need to pick ourselves a frame builder and get fit for a custom ride.

To choose the builder, I listened to my own advice. I knew I wanted to replace the Karate Monkey as my SS ride. I wanted to stay in steel as far as the frame material. I wanted to choose a builder that I felt comfortable with. Fortunately, I have a friendly relationship with a one man shop that has been working in steel for a long time. In fact I have owned several of his frames over the years going back to the early 90s. He knows how I ride and where I ride. He is the obvious choice for me, but I will mention that if I had not had this rabbit in the hat, among the builders we highlighted, I would have picked Waltworks as a builder of choice, at least as far as being most aligned with my preferences on build philosophy.

Doug Curtiss of Curtlo Cycles , now a resident of Washington state, was a local So Cal guy. I have spent many an hour hanging around the ‘barn’ where he built the bikes and more time than that pedaling a result of his torch work down some local trail.

So, I already have an advantage going into the process of determining the perfect ride for me. And with that part over and done with, we will get this party started. I spoke to Doug and he agreed to do this mostly by email so we would have a written record for the article. However, we spent a bit of time on the phone discussing various thoughts on what I was looking for in the next bike. We are specifically looking at a singlespeed, geared capable, steel, softtail 29er.

I am coming from the Karate Monkey as a point of reference. I have been riding it for quite some time, first in a 1x9 geared configuration, and lately as a pure SS. It is a very capable frame, very versatile, tough as nails, and affordable. It is also pretty heavy, kinda’ short between the wheels, less than beautiful as far as frame shape/asthetics, and has poor standover. For an XL frame (21”) it has a 24.25” effective top tube and a short headtube. I ended up with 1” of spacers under the stem, a 6* rise 110mm stem, and 1.5” rise bars to get the relationship right. I also am not such a fan of the 72* head tube angle when paired with the 45mm offset of today’s newer suspension forks. It is just a bit touchy for me and for where I ride. I also prefer a shorter stem, 100mm max, and 90mm is fine too.

So what would I be looking for in a custom frame as far as the end result?

Well obviously the right fit. Based on the measurements taken from my existing bikes and measurements of my own body dimensions, and, factoring in my preferences formed over years of riding, Doug will come up with frame dimensions to suit the circumstances. I am liking longish top tubes these days.

The right attributes. I am not trying to get all racy here. This will be a raceable, but comfy, all day type of package. Where I ride, it is typically wide open and liberally covered with loose, rutted, techy-ish stuff, fast fire roads, etc. No dancing through the Alders for me. So, while Doug will be the ultimate say, I am suggesting a slightly less than typical 72* head tube angle to be used with a 80mm suspension fork, perhaps a 100mm. We shall see.

Softtail anyone? I am not young. Even though the 29” wheels mute trail chatter, I would like a bit more cush if I can get it, so, I will take advantage of a feature that Doug builds, that being a softail frame with around ¾” of rear flex/travel. The goal is to be able to ditch the Thudbuster and run a carbon or Ti seatpost as well and be happy. Below is a pic of Doug’s personal ride. His has S&S couplers, an Action Tec front fork, and a Roloff rear hub on Paragon sliding dropouts. Trick. Doug is a big guy, so that bike looks like a 26er in scale. I think that is something like a 26” top tube on there.

So that is about it. I want the normal things that folks want out of a custom frame: a correct fit, a certain handling result, and a type of design that is out of the norm for the production built bike, a steel softail. In the next article we will be showing how we measure the existing bikes I ride, measure me, and take that and add input to the builder as far as my preferences, dreams, goals and aspirations. Basically, I wanna’ be a star! Ordering a custom frame should make you feel special, since it is, perhaps for the first time when buying a bike, all about you!

Hang on, it is about to get fun as we break out the tape measure and plumb line in our quest for the custom frame experience.

The Fit Continued:

In order to get an idea of what I looked like on the bikes I am riding now, Doug had me take some pics as well as some measurements such as seat height, cockpit length, etc. This all came in a form from Doug by email, but I believe it is also on his website.

We spoke at length about what I wanted in a bike, options, etc. At the end of that, it was enough to generate a drawing for a bike frame for yours truly.

From here, I waited for the results in a drawing that Doug provides his customers. Not all builders do this and it may or not be important to you as a client, but Curtlo does it this way. Note: I was not in any hurry as this was a mock-up only for the purposes of this article series. Ask any builder as to the timeline that you expect to see any results, add some time to that for good measure and then wait patiently.

This is what I received after one more follow up calls from Doug.

From Curtlo Cycles:

In reviewing the fit data and the photographs my first impression was to 
try and get you stretched out a little more. But when you had the 
opportunity to set up another bike with a bit more reach it was good to 
get your feedback. After riding and making adjustments...you ended up back 
where you started with the same set up as your current rides. 
 
I feel that it is safe to use your current saddle/bar relationship in 
establishing your new design. 
 
Your pedaling position is consistent between your bike set-ups and I don't 
see anything that we should change there. 
 
Because of the more upright riding position, I wanted to make sure I kept 
the front wheel out in front of you. A shorter stem length of 100mm along 
with a 71.5 degree head angle should be a nice compromise for handling. 
 
On your wish list you had mentioned a 24.5-25" top tube length. Because 
the new frame design incorporates a rear soft tail shock, I wanted to 
allow a little extra space to fit it in. I increased the seat angle to 
73.25 degrees and called out for a 16mm offset Thomson post. This gives a 
bit more room, but reduces the actual top tube length. The design ends up 
with a 24.25" effective top tube. Wtih a no offset post and a slacker seat 
angle the effective top tube would be 24.8". This seems to fall in line 
with your original thoughts. 
 
For the type of riding you have in Southern California...relatively smooth 
single track and fire roads...the 80mm travel fork along with higher 
volume 29" tire...the suspension travel should be ample. 
 
With your back sensitivity the 1" travel in the rear along with the higher 
volume 29" tire should provide a lot of relief without the penalty of 
running full suspension. The soft tail will allow more seated pedaling and 
longer time in the saddle overall. 
 
We still have the option of chain tension to decide. There is the Bushnell 
EBB, Paragon Slider drop outs and the Blackcat Hey Swinger adjustable drop outs. 
It will come down to your personal preference here, but these options are all available 
at the same cost. 


Black Cat Hey Swingers








Doug Curtiss 
CURTLO CYCLES 
www.curtlo.com 
doug@curtlo.com 
509-996-8266